Friday, May 16, 2014
No internet *sigh*
Borrowing a friend's connection. No free internet that is reliable, so I can't post as I'd hoped. Maybe Italy will be better....
Saturday, May 10, 2014
Off Again in Search of New Adventures!
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Florence: Wood Burnin Owen, Astronomy and the Codex Style (May 11 - 13)
Almost everywhere we visited in Rome we would see men in small groups wearing green felt hats with a long feather, remiscent of early Robin Hood movies or a Swiss mountaineer from central casting. Some wore insignia which suggested that they were members of a veterans’ organization, but we were never sure. It was fitting that as we made our way through the Rome train station, a group of them had formed a brass band and were playing as they waited for their train. 
It was a short ride to Florence on the Eurostar, and we arrived in enough time to visit the church of Santa Maria Novella. 
We were drawn there to see the painting “Trinity” (1426 by Masaccio) 
known for its seminal effect on the appearance of three dimensions. As a bonus we learned that the architect incorporated a number of astronomical features in the façade, including sundials, a quadrant, and equinoctial alignments. 
That evening we had dinner at a small restaurant near San Lorenzo. It caught our attention because it offered pizza made in their “wood burnin owen.” We made our choice when one of the waiters told us that the food was good but the service was terrible. We enjoyed banter with him throughout the dinner, which was indeed good, as was the service.
One of the Florence museums we wanted to see was the History of Science, but as we collected information to plan our week, we realized that many, if not most, of the more interesting artifacts from early astronomy to Galileo were likely to be in a special exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi with pretty much that name.
We guessed correctly. We spent most of our energy that day in the exhibit. It contained gems such as: a working reconstruction of the metal clock-like astronomical calendar, the “Antikythem Mechanism,’ 
the original of which we saw in Athens as recovered in its corroded state from a shipwreck in 70 BC; a 16th century book which included paper mechanisms for astrolabes; Galileo’s astrolabe, his original telescopes, and his finger. Yes, in a glass display case was one of Galileo’s fingers, which had been removed when his body was moved to the Santa Croce church in Florence about a hundred years after his death. It probably didn’t matter at the time, but considering Galileo’s struggle with conventional thinking vs. his telescopic observations, the fact that it is a middle finger seems somewhat appropriate. 
After securing tickets for entry later in the week to the most popular museums, for May 13 we decided to see a few of the museums on the next tier. Our first stop was the museum of San Marco, which is housed in a former Dominican monastery.
The monks’ former cells (rooms) had frescoes, some by the well-known Dominican artists Fra’ Angelico and Fra’ Bartolomeo. Patti’s favorite Fra’ Angelico fresco is that of the Annunciation. She was thrilled to see it! 
A short walk south brought us to the Basilica of San Lorenzo. The associated library had a special exhibit on the development of book-length written works leading to the codex style, which is the shape and structure of what we call a book. In the basilica itself the “treasury room” held the largest collection of reliquaries with the material remains visible that we had yet seen. There were more in the separate Medici Chapel. Our primary purpose for visiting the Medici Chapel was to see the tombs sculpted for the Medici by Michelangelo. 
We discovered there an art form that is almost exclusive to Florence: a form of mosaic called pietre dure, in which colored stones selected for color and texture are cut to shape and set almost seamlessly into the space cut to fit in a stone frame. 
We spent a long time at L’Opera Pietra Dure Museum marveling at these marble mosaics and the antique mechanisms used to make them. Along the wall were huge cabinets filled with every type of marble known to man.
We finished our excursions for the day with a visit to the Piazza della Signoria in front of the city hall, with its copy of Michelangelo’s David and sculpture loggia (porch). 
We crossed the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio, 
then back into the Florence city center on the Ponte Santa Trinita and visited the church of the same name.
It was a short ride to Florence on the Eurostar, and we arrived in enough time to visit the church of Santa Maria Novella. We were drawn there to see the painting “Trinity” (1426 by Masaccio) known for its seminal effect on the appearance of three dimensions. As a bonus we learned that the architect incorporated a number of astronomical features in the façade, including sundials, a quadrant, and equinoctial alignments. That evening we had dinner at a small restaurant near San Lorenzo. It caught our attention because it offered pizza made in their “wood burnin owen.” We made our choice when one of the waiters told us that the food was good but the service was terrible. We enjoyed banter with him throughout the dinner, which was indeed good, as was the service.One of the Florence museums we wanted to see was the History of Science, but as we collected information to plan our week, we realized that many, if not most, of the more interesting artifacts from early astronomy to Galileo were likely to be in a special exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi with pretty much that name.
We guessed correctly. We spent most of our energy that day in the exhibit. It contained gems such as: a working reconstruction of the metal clock-like astronomical calendar, the “Antikythem Mechanism,’ the original of which we saw in Athens as recovered in its corroded state from a shipwreck in 70 BC; a 16th century book which included paper mechanisms for astrolabes; Galileo’s astrolabe, his original telescopes, and his finger. Yes, in a glass display case was one of Galileo’s fingers, which had been removed when his body was moved to the Santa Croce church in Florence about a hundred years after his death. It probably didn’t matter at the time, but considering Galileo’s struggle with conventional thinking vs. his telescopic observations, the fact that it is a middle finger seems somewhat appropriate. After securing tickets for entry later in the week to the most popular museums, for May 13 we decided to see a few of the museums on the next tier. Our first stop was the museum of San Marco, which is housed in a former Dominican monastery.
The monks’ former cells (rooms) had frescoes, some by the well-known Dominican artists Fra’ Angelico and Fra’ Bartolomeo. Patti’s favorite Fra’ Angelico fresco is that of the Annunciation. She was thrilled to see it! A short walk south brought us to the Basilica of San Lorenzo. The associated library had a special exhibit on the development of book-length written works leading to the codex style, which is the shape and structure of what we call a book. In the basilica itself the “treasury room” held the largest collection of reliquaries with the material remains visible that we had yet seen. There were more in the separate Medici Chapel. Our primary purpose for visiting the Medici Chapel was to see the tombs sculpted for the Medici by Michelangelo. We discovered there an art form that is almost exclusive to Florence: a form of mosaic called pietre dure, in which colored stones selected for color and texture are cut to shape and set almost seamlessly into the space cut to fit in a stone frame. We spent a long time at L’Opera Pietra Dure Museum marveling at these marble mosaics and the antique mechanisms used to make them. Along the wall were huge cabinets filled with every type of marble known to man.We finished our excursions for the day with a visit to the Piazza della Signoria in front of the city hall, with its copy of Michelangelo’s David and sculpture loggia (porch). We crossed the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio, then back into the Florence city center on the Ponte Santa Trinita and visited the church of the same name.Rome, Angels, and Demons (May 9 and 10)
Rome has plenty of museums, but by Saturday May 9 we had visited all of them that we wanted to, so we set out to give ourselves an “Angels and Demons” tour, in advance of seeing the movie. Our first stop was the Castel San Angelo on the Tiber. 
This was relatively uncrowded and provided some great views of Rome. 
From there we walked back to St. Peter’s Square to look for the markers of the winds near the base of the obelisk. 
(By the way, all 16 of the markers have names for the winds, not just the one, as shown in the movie.) We had to go “‘cross Rome” for the next marker, the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. We took in the Bernini sculpture St. Theresa in Ecstacy, along with other tourists who appeared to have the same agenda. 
From there it was NW to Santa Maria del Popolo and the pyramidal markers in the Chigi Chapel. 
The altarpiece was covered up so we couldn’t see that angel. By then it had been a long enough day and we returned to our hotel room.
After Mass on Sunday we walked to the Piazza Novanna and the Fountain of the Four Rivers.
That concluded our A&D tour. Before returning to our hotel room we stopped for a sit-down and some refreshment near the church of San Salvatore in Lauro.
This church held in esteem a priest who was a founder of Opus Dei, and had some funerary obelisks in a side chapel. We’ll have to wait for a different novel to work those in.
This was relatively uncrowded and provided some great views of Rome. From there we walked back to St. Peter’s Square to look for the markers of the winds near the base of the obelisk. (By the way, all 16 of the markers have names for the winds, not just the one, as shown in the movie.) We had to go “‘cross Rome” for the next marker, the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. We took in the Bernini sculpture St. Theresa in Ecstacy, along with other tourists who appeared to have the same agenda. From there it was NW to Santa Maria del Popolo and the pyramidal markers in the Chigi Chapel. The altarpiece was covered up so we couldn’t see that angel. By then it had been a long enough day and we returned to our hotel room.After Mass on Sunday we walked to the Piazza Novanna and the Fountain of the Four Rivers.
That concluded our A&D tour. Before returning to our hotel room we stopped for a sit-down and some refreshment near the church of San Salvatore in Lauro. This church held in esteem a priest who was a founder of Opus Dei, and had some funerary obelisks in a side chapel. We’ll have to wait for a different novel to work those in.
Rome: Basilicas, the Pantheon, Ercolano and Pompeii May 7 and 8
We walked to the Basilica of St. Clement because we had been intrigued reading about its co-location of 3 churches. We walked down to bottom level, a temple used for worship up to the 2nd century AD of their god Mithras by Romans. 
On top of that structure, St. Clement built a Christian church in the 4th century AD, not long after Constantine gave Christianity legal status in the Roman Empire. In both levels we enjoyed being able to move around freely and take our time studying the ancient buildings. We noted the veneration paid to St. Cyril, who brought the Gospel to the Slavic peoples along with writing down their language in the script he invented for them. This 9th century AD fresco is believed to mark his grave in the church.
Another fresco from that same time is regarded as the first recording of the Italian vernacular language.
We had been encouraged by our friends in Matera to give Ercolano (Herculaneum) priority over Pompeii for our visit to the sites buried by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. We took their advice and made Ercolano our first stop on Friday, May 8. The archaeological site was a short walk from the train station. Ercolano is a smaller, more compact site which appeared to us not to have been cleared of all frescoes, mosaic floors, and remnants of charred posts and lintels to the same degree as Pompeii. At the time of the eruption the foreground in this picture was the seashore. 
Pompeii was still impressive for its expanse as a site, and for its location with a clear view to Mt. Vesuvius. 
Pompeii has a large forum and wider streets, and the openness and general lack of roofs on the buildings made it easier to photograph artifacts that were also present In Ercolano, and generally in better shape, such as this shop which kept cooked food in the circular basins for citizens to buy,
To get an idea of the size of the 79 AD eruption, mentally extend the sides of Vesuvius in the pictures shown to form the volcanic cone. The missing volume contributed to the burying of Ercolano and Pompeii. 
On top of that structure, St. Clement built a Christian church in the 4th century AD, not long after Constantine gave Christianity legal status in the Roman Empire. In both levels we enjoyed being able to move around freely and take our time studying the ancient buildings. We noted the veneration paid to St. Cyril, who brought the Gospel to the Slavic peoples along with writing down their language in the script he invented for them. This 9th century AD fresco is believed to mark his grave in the church.Another fresco from that same time is regarded as the first recording of the Italian vernacular language. We then made our way by subway and bus to the Pantheon, another of Hadrian’s constructions and now a Catholic church. Although we’ve seen the dome and its oculus many times in pictures, it was breathtaking to stand inside and feel insignificant within that huge space.
We had been encouraged by our friends in Matera to give Ercolano (Herculaneum) priority over Pompeii for our visit to the sites buried by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. We took their advice and made Ercolano our first stop on Friday, May 8. The archaeological site was a short walk from the train station. Ercolano is a smaller, more compact site which appeared to us not to have been cleared of all frescoes, mosaic floors, and remnants of charred posts and lintels to the same degree as Pompeii. At the time of the eruption the foreground in this picture was the seashore. Pompeii was still impressive for its expanse as a site, and for its location with a clear view to Mt. Vesuvius. Pompeii has a large forum and wider streets, and the openness and general lack of roofs on the buildings made it easier to photograph artifacts that were also present In Ercolano, and generally in better shape, such as this shop which kept cooked food in the circular basins for citizens to buy, and this bakery with its cone-shaped grist mills.
To get an idea of the size of the 79 AD eruption, mentally extend the sides of Vesuvius in the pictures shown to form the volcanic cone. The missing volume contributed to the burying of Ercolano and Pompeii. Monday, June 1, 2009
Vatican Museums Wednesday, May 6
When we returned to the Vatican Museums on Wednesday, May 6 we set to working through the other collections more or less chronologically, including a female figure in pottery from 5600 BC in Anatolia, a cuneiform tablet recording a real estate transaction from 2550 BC in Iraq, 
and—leaping ahead in time considerably—a statue of Anubis, the Egyptian jackal-god, dressed like a soldier from the Roman Empire. 
As we toured the museum, there were several open windows giving us glimpses of St. Peter’s Basilica from different angles and a view we found particularly amusing – the Pope’s private tennis court and children’s playground (???). 
In the Pio Clementino we saw one pre-Constantine Christian artifact, a clay lamp from the crypt of St. Sebastian in the Appian Catacombs. 
At the conclusion of this collection we saw directions to and books and videos of the “Vatican Secret Archives” but we could get no closer than a look down a long hallway which presumably revealed the secret. 
We were able to dally a bit in the long halls of tapestries and maps, and galleries of paintings and sculpture long enough to recognize the bees as symbolic of the Barberini family and Pope Urban VII, quite frequently featured in works by Bernini, who recognized a good patronage. We finished the day back in St. Peter’s Basilica and with a run through of the Vatican Treasury Museum.
and—leaping ahead in time considerably—a statue of Anubis, the Egyptian jackal-god, dressed like a soldier from the Roman Empire. As we toured the museum, there were several open windows giving us glimpses of St. Peter’s Basilica from different angles and a view we found particularly amusing – the Pope’s private tennis court and children’s playground (???). In the Pio Clementino we saw one pre-Constantine Christian artifact, a clay lamp from the crypt of St. Sebastian in the Appian Catacombs. At the conclusion of this collection we saw directions to and books and videos of the “Vatican Secret Archives” but we could get no closer than a look down a long hallway which presumably revealed the secret. We were able to dally a bit in the long halls of tapestries and maps, and galleries of paintings and sculpture long enough to recognize the bees as symbolic of the Barberini family and Pope Urban VII, quite frequently featured in works by Bernini, who recognized a good patronage. We finished the day back in St. Peter’s Basilica and with a run through of the Vatican Treasury Museum.
Rome: The Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica (May 5 and 6)
We arrived at the Vatican about an hour before our reserved entry time, so we walked around St. Peter’s Square for a bit. The building near the basilica on the south colonnade provided an exhibit on the history of the Vatican State to mark its 80th anniversary. A very helpful overview was provided by a scale model of Vatican City. It was interesting to see the original Lateran Treaty with Italy, signed by Mussolini, (usually kept in the Vatican Archives and never seen before)
and one of the earlier papal vehicles. 
The passenger cabin included a piece of folded upholstery that could have been a seat, a kneeler, or both.
We had hoped that the museum Pio Christiano would tell us more about the pre-Constantine Christians, but that was not the case. There were some of the grave markers from the Catacombs but these were not placed in a context we could easily understand.
For our next move we decided to head directly for the Sistine Chapel. It was a long walk and for much of the way unintentionally as part of tour groups, or through and around them. Once we arrived at the Sistine Chapel it didn’t matter that it was crowded because crowds do not block your view of the ceiling. We enjoyed about an hour of observing and appreciating Michelangelo’s great work until our necks were tired. Photography of any type was not allowed, so we have no pictures of something you have already seen in pictures.
After appreciating the Chapel, it was close to closing time for any other museum exhibits, so we went into the Basilica, where awe is inspired no matter what direction one looks. We were able to spend some length of time up close to Michelangelo’s Pieta, and then joined the queue to observe Pope John XXIII’s corpse, pale but not decaying, which is why it is on display in the first place. With time enough to check things out a bit, we learned that services were scheduled soon, so we stayed for Mass (in a combination of Italian and Latin). It was beautiful and we were very glad we had stayed for it. We found the altar particularly beautiful.
and one of the earlier papal vehicles. The passenger cabin included a piece of folded upholstery that could have been a seat, a kneeler, or both.We had hoped that the museum Pio Christiano would tell us more about the pre-Constantine Christians, but that was not the case. There were some of the grave markers from the Catacombs but these were not placed in a context we could easily understand.
For our next move we decided to head directly for the Sistine Chapel. It was a long walk and for much of the way unintentionally as part of tour groups, or through and around them. Once we arrived at the Sistine Chapel it didn’t matter that it was crowded because crowds do not block your view of the ceiling. We enjoyed about an hour of observing and appreciating Michelangelo’s great work until our necks were tired. Photography of any type was not allowed, so we have no pictures of something you have already seen in pictures.
After appreciating the Chapel, it was close to closing time for any other museum exhibits, so we went into the Basilica, where awe is inspired no matter what direction one looks. We were able to spend some length of time up close to Michelangelo’s Pieta, and then joined the queue to observe Pope John XXIII’s corpse, pale but not decaying, which is why it is on display in the first place. With time enough to check things out a bit, we learned that services were scheduled soon, so we stayed for Mass (in a combination of Italian and Latin). It was beautiful and we were very glad we had stayed for it. We found the altar particularly beautiful.
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